Thursday, September 27, 2007

The More-Than-Chocolate-Making Process of Patric Chocolate:

There are only about 19 chocolate makers in the United States who actually start with cacao (cocoa beans) and follow the process through to finished chocolate, and only about 13 that are "bean to bar" chocolate makers.
However, there are even fewer chocolate makers who attempt to produce small batches of excellent quality chocolate based on a love for the craft and a deep philosophical conviction about how to take cacao and sugar and create a product that is the pinnacle of chocolate.

Such vision and skill is not a simple endeavor, and Patric Chocolate holds deep respect for such chocolate makers as colleagues and friends in the field. Yet, though such chocolate makers may all start with similar goals of making the best fine chocolate possible, still every serious chocolate maker creates quite different products as he/she necessarily follows his/her own unique taste regarding what flavors and textures ultimately result in the best product.

This situation leads to a wide range of high-quality, but yet quite distinctive, products from a variety of chocolate makers, and this diversity of end results is one of the beauties of a complex product such as fine dark chocolate, as it invites all of the countless chocolate connoisseurs and chocolate lovers to an exciting discovery of the multiplicity of these excellent products.

Some people may like all of these chocolates to varying degrees, but some people may have strong preferences for or against certain items. This is only natural, of course, and certainly one chocolate that may be considered the best in the world by one chocolate aficionado may be considered quite inadequate by another. This being the case, it would be a mistake to attempt to create a chocolate that everyone would like. In fact, there are companies who try to do just such a thing, creating chocolate based only on the tastes of the average consumer, and these are the mass-producers of the chocolate world. It isn�t difficult to think of one or two of these companies whose names can be seen in every grocery store or vending machine.

Companies like this create chocolate products that are analogous to the manufactured pop music of the corporate music world. Like such pop music, these chocolates are generally overly sweet, �easy,� and lacking almost any character whatsoever. Such chocolates are not interesting or worthy of more than just passing attention, and when one has finished eating one of them, it is hard to remember anything more about it than its sugar-laden nature. This type of chocolate is really the antithesis of the products created by serious chocolate makers here in the US and abroad.

Instead, serious chocolate makers look for character and beauty, and above all, an intriguing, persistent and delicious flavor that forces one to wake up and pay attention to the inspiring aromas and luscious mouthfeel. These chocolates are not soon forgotten, and creating fine dark chocolate bars such as these is the raison d��tre of Patric Chocolate. However, as important as this preliminary philosophy is in the creation of fine dark chocolate, it is the process that this view spawns that holds even more importance. After all, a faulty process does not make excellent chocolate no matter how brilliant the philosophy behind it may be. So, it is of interest to Patric Chocolate to share our process of chocolate-making in an effort to better explain how our philosophy comes to assert itself regarding the fine cacao and pure cane sugar of which we make use, day in, and day out. Of course not every detail is revealed, but the broad outline of the process is all here and as a fellow chocolate lover, we think that you will find it to be of interest.


The Process:


Patric Chocolate begins with different types of fine cacao from superior terroirs that have been carefully fermented and sun-dried to make the various bars of the Patric Chocolate line. In some cases, chocolate maker Alan McClure has even met with the grower(s) of the cacao itself in order to discuss the post-harvest processing of the cacao in great detail. This process of connecting with small growers and forming alliances in order to improve cacao quality is ongoing.

Once the cacao is chosen for a particular bar, it is first hand-sifted and sorted to remove:

� Dust and silt
� Bean fragments
� Beans with cracked shells
� Cut beans as a result of removal from the pod
� Double or even triple beans, which have ended up stuck together during the previous drying process, and, therefore, may have negative flavor qualities
� Germinated beans that had not started fermenting soon enough after harvest
� Flat beans
� Too-small beans
� Non-cacao items such as leaves and/or twigs

After this painstaking cleaning process, the cacao is roasted in small batches with close attention to time and temperature curves, air-flow, aroma, flavor, and even the appearance and sound of the cacao, leading to the best roast possible for a given type of cacao.

The cacao is then cracked, classified by particle size, and finally winnowed (a process using controlled airflow) to remove the outer shell or "testa" of the cacao. During this process, the vast majority of the germ, or radicle, is removed. The germ is a tough and hard needle-shaped object, which is quite bitter, and has very little of the cocoa butter which gives fine chocolate its smooth and beautifully-melting qualities.

What is left after this process is a container of pure, shell-free nibs, the �nut� of the cocoa bean. This is 100% pure unground chocolate, which is delicious by itself, but it is only with the addition of small amounts of pure cane sugar and a long and complex refining process that these nibs begin to resemble fine chocolate.

First, Alan grinds the nibs in a customized granite-based refiner in order to reduce them to a paste, and then, with the addition of heat due to friction and external factors, into a thick and flowing liquid. At this point pure cane sugar is added, and the refiner mixes and grinds the liquid further until the particles of cacao and sugar become quite small.

Next, the heating and speed setting of the machine are carefully altered to allow a slow and constant conching of the liquid chocolate that continues for between four and five days. The reason for this protracted process is two-fold: Firstly, the texture of the chocolate continues to change as particles of sugar and cacao are reduced ever-so-slightly in size. These particles also come to be coated in a velvety layer of their own cocoa butter, thereby also improving the texture and modifying the innate harshness and bitterness of the chocolate�s flavor. The flavor of the chocolate is also impacted during the conching, in part, due to a slight, but constant, evaporation of volatile flavor components such as acetic acid, resulting in a less acidic and harsh flavor. As the chocolate aroma loses this acetic acid-harshness it also begins to smell like the luscious dark chocolate that we have all come love.

Finally, the chocolate seems ready, but it is only after Alan has aged it in large blocks and the flavors have further mellowed and developed, that it is melted, tempered (a controlled crystallization of the chocolate so that it has the proper mouth-feel and glossy sheen), and molded into bars. The glossy dark bars are then hand-wrapped in thick golden-foil and carefully slid into the unique Patric Chocolate package, highlighting, in word and image, the beauty of the product contained within.

Since the bars are molded regularly, and in small numbers, they never sit on shelves long before finally being enjoyed by one of our discriminating customers, and during storage, they are kept at a constant cool temperature in order to maintain their exquisite texture and sheen.

As can be seen, this process is not simply making chocolate as any large factory would, it is making chocolate with a love and respect, a passion, for the medium, with a goal to produce only the finest dark chocolate bars in the United States and Europe, and the result of this more-than-chocolate-making process is all in the aroma, taste, and feel of Patric Chocolate. We invite you to experience it for yourself.

Monday, September 17, 2007

Missouri-Based Chocolate Events: Hosted by Patric Chocolate

For all of you who live in Missouri, or in a bordering state such as Illinois or Kansas, and are interested in future chocolate discussion and tasting events sponsored by Patric Chocolate, such as the one held here in Columbia, MO on the 1st of September (more below), then please sign up on the mailing list to be contacted when various events are held in Columbia, St. Louis, Kansas City, and elsewhere in Missouri. Just be sure to select "Chocolate Updates" AND "Missouri Resident" when you sign up on the list.

If you have already signed up on the Patric Chocolate mailing list, then just re-enter your e-mail below, and follow the simple instructions to change your subscription options to include "Missouri Resident."

What could be better than an e-mail list that tells you when complimentary samples of Patric Chocolate will be available near you?

Please let me know when Patric Chocolate is holding Missouri-based talks and tastings:

For those of you who couldn't make the last Patric Chocolate "Talk and Tasting," at World Harvest Foods on Sept. 1st, you can learn more about the content by viewing two previous blog posts, here, and here. (Links open in new windows)

Tuesday, September 11, 2007

Patric Chocolate in the News: Photo of the First Patric Chocolate Bar

Chocolate maker Alan McClure (of Patric Chocolate) is the "Success Stories Featured Entrepreneur" in this month's newsletter and on-line presence of the Missouri Small Business Development Centers. The article spends quite some time discussing fine chocolate and the goals of Patric Chocolate, and there are a number of related photos as well. Find it here


Here is a taste of one photo from the article that may interest many of you who don't live in Columbia, MO...the first Patric Chocolate bar. Learn more about the national release date of Patric Chocolate from the article above!
(Click the Photo for a Larger Version)

Thursday, September 6, 2007

Interesting Chocolate Facts (and Photos)

At the recent chocolate talk and tasting here in Columbia, MO, we discussed a number of items about chocolate that are not commonly known. Some people found these points to be quite interesting, and so we decided that we should share them with all of the Patric Chocolate blog readers as well.

#1: Smooth and refined European-style chocolate bars have only existed since the invention of a machine called the "conche" in 1879 by Rudolphe Lindt, the man whose name still graces bars of Lindt chocolate. For the 3000 years, or more, that chocolate had been consumed prior to Lindt's invention, it was consumed almost wholly as a drink, either hot or cold, and mixed with water and various spices.

#2: The scientific name of the tree that bears cocoa "beans," is Theobroma cacao, and was named by Carolus Linnaeus in 1753. Theobroma means "food of the gods," and the word "cacao" is based upon the Mayan pronunciation of the tree--kakaw--which itself was borrowed from the Olmec civilization before them.

#3: (Get ready, this one is a bit long and a little technical) The fruit of a cacao tree is usually called a "pod" though it is botanically not a pod at all. Those who have wanted to be more specific have called the cacao fruit an indehiscent drupe, which means that it is a "stone" fruit, or fruit surrounding a hard, shell-covered seed (a drupe), that doesn't fall from the tree or release its seeds on its own accord (indehiscent). However, despite this common wisdom, a colleague, Steve DeVries of DeVries Chocolate in Denver, CO, recently pointed out that he had discovered that cacao, though indehiscent, is not a drupe at all. Upon reflection, this discovery seems obvious as the cacao fruit is filled with many pulpy, fruit-covered seeds, and not covered with a hard shell of any sort as is the seed of a peach, or plum, fruits which are true drupes. A photo of an open pod:

(July 2006--Click the Photo for a Larger View)

So, Patric Chocolate began to wonder what the accurate botanical classification of a cacao fruit should be, if not a drupe. With this in mind we stumbled across a paper by Douglas Lehrian and Gordon Patterson of the Hershey Foods Corporation, in a book published in 1983, that mentions quite clearly that the cacao fruit is a berry! We were a bit hesitant to rely on this information alone, with the large amount of seeming uncertainty and confusion surrounding the question of the cacao fruit, but after checking back with DeVries, who himself verified with some experts in the field, it seems that we can be relatively sure that the cacao fruit is indeed a berry. Who knew?

#4: So, now that we are pondering what it means for the cacao fruit to be a berry, it actually makes quite a bit of sense that this would be the case, as many of the chemicals found in other berries, such as the blueberry, are also found in cacao fruit. Some of the most well-known of these chemicals come from a class called polyphenols which are powerful antioxidants. In fact, the same polyphenol that gives blueberries their blue-purple color is responsible for the purple color in raw forastero cacao seeds, though most people will never have the opportunity to see a purple cacao seed, as the colorant is converted into a colorless compound during a post-harvest fermentation process long before the seeds are ever made into chocolate.

#5: Finally, another item of interest that is not well known, is that unlike the average fruit tree, which grows fruit in many parts of its canopy, the cacao fruit actually grows primarily on the trunk of the cacao tree, and to some extent on the primary branches, a behavior termed "cauliflory." Here are a few photos to give you a better idea of this peculiarity:


A photo of a particularly old and very large cacao tree during a trip to Tabasco State, Mexico:


(July 2006--Click the Photo for a Larger View)


A photo of a much younger tree, also in Tabasco State:

(July 2006--Click the Photo for a Larger View)

A close-up of a Porcelana pod during a trip to Zulia State in Venezuela.

(December 2006--Click the Photo for a Larger View)

Monday, September 3, 2007

Thank You for the Excellent Turnout...


Chocolate Maker Alan McClure Speaking to Participants of the Recent Chocolate Discussion and Tasting in Columbia, MO.


Patric Chocolate would like to thank everyone who turned up at the chocolate talk and tasting this past Saturday at World Harvest Foods. Honestly, we didn't really know how many people to expect, but for a "small" college town, there was quite a turnout with 30-40 chocolate lovers stopping by to listen, talk and taste between noon and 2 pm.

It is clear that there are many Columbians who are genuinely excited at the opportunity to learn about chocolate, and to taste some of the different bars that are available locally. We talked a bit about how chocolate is made, the history of chocolate, and then discussed how to taste chocolate to best appreciate it. Then came the really fun part: Everyone had the opportunity to taste a number of bars that World Harvest carries including Guittard Ambaja 65%, Scharffen Berger 70%, Valrhona Noir Amer 71%, ChocoVic Maragda 70%, Lindt Excellence 70%, and of course, the first bar from the Patric Chocolate line of fine dark chocolate that is made right here in Columbia, MO.

All in all, it was a wonderful time, and it certainly was a pleasure to speak with so many of the chocoholics of Columbia about all things chocolate.

For those of you who weren't able to make it, note that we will be doing another presentation and tasting at the same location in late November after the craziness of Thanksgiving has come and gone. So, keep checking back with the Patric Chocolate blog, or even subscribe to our blog feed to have new posts as soon as they are available.

Finally, for those of you who were able to make it to the tasting we'd really love to hear from you about your experience with Patric Chocolate. A lot of you had some very nice things to say in person, but it was busy and we didn't get to talk to everyone, so if you could put your comments into an e-mail and send them off to News@Patric-Chocolate.com, we would very much like to read them!