The point of tasting chocolate as an organized practice is to learn more about a specific chocolate, but also chocolate in general, and how our senses interact with it so that we are better prepared to appreciate the next bar to an even higher degree. Each time we taste chocolate is, therefore, a learning experience. Of interest here is the fact that though each person will perceive the flavor of a particular chocolate somewhat differently, preferences aside, we are still all members of the same species, and that being the case, we sense the flavor and texture of chocolate in similar ways. So, in our quest to better appreciate chocolate, it is also useful to better understand our own body�s sensory reactions to this fine food. The chocolate tasting guide below will, by talking about the qualities of chocolate, delve into the parts of the human sensory realm which are relevant in terms of better understanding chocolate. If this sounds too complicated, just remember that in the end, it is all about flavor and enjoyment of the chocolate in question. We will be ignoring anything that has no reasonable impact on the flavor of the chocolate, and therefore the artwork of the package, bar design and the like will not be discussed.
Preliminary Definitions:
Flavor: Since �flavor,� as understood by flavor technologists, is quite complex, we will use a simplified working definition. �Flavor� is a combination of taste (sensed by the tongue/gustatory sensation) and aroma (sensed by the nose/olfactory sensation). These two components impact the overall flavor sensation of a particular food. Contrary to common usage, then, in the following guide, the terms �flavor� and �taste� will not be used interchangeably.
Cacao: Also known as �cocoa beans� and sometimes simply �cocoa,� cacao is the fruit of a tropical tree. Though the tree�s fruit is often referred to as a �pod� or a �drupe,� in reality it is a very large berry. The berry is harvested, and the pulp-covered seeds are removed, fermented, and dried, all of which are complicated processes that clearly impact the flavor of the cacao. The cacao is then ready to be used in chocolate manufacture where, among other things, it will be roasted, have its thin shell removed, and be ground into a flavorful and viscous liquid.
Conching: A process in chocolate manufacture, which takes place during/after refining, and where textural and flavor refinement continues to occur, though the size of the cacao and sugar particles within the chocolate are not substantially reduced.
Tempering: A process where chocolate is melted, and then the cocoa butter within it is recrystallized in a controlled way using heat and agitation. Tempering chocolate prior to molding it into bars results in a substantial impact on the flavor of the product as the temperature at which it melts, and therefore gives off various tastes and aromas, is brought to within a very specific range.
Tasting Chocolate:
Chocolate is best tasted with a clean palate. This means that other foods or beverages, especially strongly-flavored ones, have not been eaten immediately beforehand. As with all senses, the nose and tongue can be impacted by sensory adaptation such that over time--even a relatively short period of time--as food or beverage is consumed, taste and smell will become less specific and refined. This is especially the case when one particular food is continually tasted or smelled, but even with different foods and beverages being consumed in succession, the palate will not be as accurate as sensory adaptation will have taken place in relation to the previously consumed food, and will therefore impact the perception of the chocolate flavor. This being the case, some people believe that the best time to taste chocolate is first thing in the morning before breakfast. Another option might be to wait several hours after a previous meal. At any rate, it is important to give the mouth and nose some rest from sensations prior to tasting chocolate, and especially to give them rest from strong sensations such as those of spices, coffee, cheese, and from long-lasting sensations, such as aromas from a cooked stew, or perhaps a vase of flowers or a scented-candle.
One other important issue is that between types of chocolate it is good to "cleanse" the palate. This is best done with room temperature water, and very mild food such as salt-free "saltines." Cleansing the palate in this way will actually help to minimize inevitable sensory adaptation as one moves from one chocolate to the next.
We will now begin our discussion of chocolate tasting by looking at a bar in the way that one would logically experience it in real life. The order will be: packaging, appearance, aroma, snap, and then flavor (including aroma and taste) and texture. Remember that we will disregard anything which does not impact flavor, such as package design.
1) Packaging: Unwrapping the bar
Though the packaging of the bar has little bearing on the flavor of the chocolate, certain elements of the packaging can impact the chocolate flavor. First of all, the expiration date on the package should be checked. Though chocolate can be stored in perfect conditions for quite some time with little degradation in quality, most retail stores do not store or display chocolate in such conditions. Therefore, it is advisable to purchase chocolate from most retail stores well before the expiration or �enjoy by� date. Also be sure that the conditions in the retail store are cool, that the chocolate is not in direct sunlight, and that it is not stored next to any heat-emitting machinery or strongly scented items. Any of these conditions could destroy the aroma, taste and texture of the chocolate.
As for packaging types, common chocolate bar packaging includes an outer wrap and an inner wrap. While the outer wrap generally contains the product information, it is the inner wrap that can more readily impact the flavor of the bar. As for inner wrap, there are a number of options that are commonly found: foil, paper-backed foil, clear plastic flow wrap, and aluminized plastic flow wrap. Foil and especially paper-backed foil are not entirely air tight, potentially allowing flavor degradation over time, but are both more easily re-sealed after opening the bar, thereby preserving freshness. Plastic flow wraps can be virtually air tight, but do not reseal as easily.
As for other ways than inner wrap can impact flavor, some people claim that any plastic flow wrap tends to give a slight plastic aroma to the chocolate, a flavor exchange process called scalping. Some people also claim that paper-backed foil gives off a �papery� aroma that is absorbed into the chocolate bar. Confectioner�s foil without any backing is a neutral option that does not impact flavor or aroma negatively, but again, it is generally not fully air tight, so the freshness of the bar depends upon how it is wrapped in the foil, and the aroma of the outer wrap within which it is packed. These packaging-related issues are all things to keep in mind when tasting a new type of chocolate, or perhaps a familiar chocolate that seems to taste different than usual. Each type of packaging certainly has benefits and drawbacks, and combined with the age and storage of the product can potentially impact the flavor and aroma in a variety of ways.
2) Bar Appearance: Inspecting the bar
Though the appearance of the chocolate bar does not always impact its aroma, taste or texture , there are defects that impact both. Generally, fine chocolate has a glossy finish or sheen, though it may be matte or textured instead due to mold design. However, from time to time a chocolate bar may have a condition called �fat bloom,� which can manifest in a variety of ways, from a pronounced yellow blotchy/spotty finish caused by poor temper, or poor handling techniques (i.e., it was allowed to melt and re-harden), or a more subdued dulling of the surface sheen with a hazy white film. Pronounced bloom does negatively impact the flavor of the bar as it results in a crumbly and unpalatable texture, and chocolate with such bloom does not readily melt as a tempered bar would, and therefore the flow of tastes and aromas are impacted in a negative way with harsh notes often being accentuated and subtle notes obliterated. Subtle fat bloom may be primarily a surface defect, and therefore may not impact the texture or flavor of the bar in a noticeable way. However, such bloom does show improper storage or handling conditions.
Another defect called sugar bloom is also possible when chocolate is exposed to conditions where humidity is relatively high, and results in a dull whitish and somewhat grainy coating covering the parts of the bar that have been exposed to the high-humidity. It may be the whole bar, or just the parts near the folds of the inner packing. Though sugar bloom does negatively impact texture it does not destroy the bar�s flavor. Yet, sugar bloom is still a flaw that will effect your overall enjoyment of the chocolate. As for other marks on the bar�s surface due to transport or handling prior to packaging, they should not impact the flavor. The rule, then, is that bloomed chocolate bars�sugar or fat--should not be purchased as the mishandling that they have endured will quite possibly impact the overall flavor and texture of the product in a negative way.
3) Initial Aroma
Let us back up and take another look at the definition of �flavor.� There are two components to flavor, �taste� and �aroma.� Taste consists of the aspects of flavor that are sensed by the tongue. These notes are generally broken down into the five basic tastes of acid, salt, sweet, bitter, and umami. However, flavor technologists now know that the human tongue can distinguish not only different levels of each type of taste, such as more or less bitter, but also different qualities of each taste such as the bitterness that results from roasting (caused by diketopiperazines for example) as opposed to the bitterness caused by raw cacao (primarily caused by low molecular weight flavonoids). However, even with the complexity of tastes that the tongue can sense, it is almost useless without the sensory data from the nose called aroma.
Aroma is arguably the most important part of any perceived flavor, and therefore the most important part of the chocolate-tasting experience. Not only does the initial aroma of the chocolate, once it has been unwrapped, foretell of the flavor to come, but the flavor of the chocolate itself, while it is in the mouth, is composed primarily of aromas that move from the melting chocolate up the retronasal passage way and into the olfactory organ�the nose. When we add aroma to taste, the tartness of malic acid may become noticeable as the tartness of an apple. The bitterness of a particular chemical called a pyrazine may become noticeable as the bitterness associated with roasted coffee. Aroma allows the flavor to be fully elaborated by the brain, and therefore it is quite important never to hold one�s breath while tasting chocolate, or any food for that matter. Inhaling the chocolate's aroma both before and after it is placed in the mouth allows one to distinguish between extremely complex, subtle and profound flavor notes. One may even wish to pull extra air in through the mouth, and across the molten chocolate, to accentuate the flow of air to the nose, as is done in wine tasting. Sometimes particularly subtle notes may become apparent in this way.
With this in mind, before putting any of the chocolate in your mouth, open up the bar and breath in the aroma multiple times. Make notes, either on paper, or mentally, about what you smell. Is the aroma filled with fruit, earthiness, roasted qualities, even the smell of brownies? Perhaps there are even notes that you wouldn�t associate with chocolate such as those with a vegetal quality, tea, or even leather or tobacco. Also, note whether the aroma is strong or weak. A weak aroma may be the result of certain chocolate making techniques, sub-par cacao, or perhaps chocolate storage issues. A strong aroma may be pleasing or off-putting. It is up to you to take all the pieces of the aroma puzzle and decide what to make of it. Just remember that once you put a piece of chocolate in your mouth, these same aromas will come into play yet again, and so keep them in mind.
4) Snap: Breaking off a small square
Break off part of a square of chocolate and notice whether you hear a distinct "snap" as it breaks. Problems with the chocolate�s temper or later storage and handling can result in bars that are very hard and crumbly. Another problem is adding fats to the chocolate that aren�t cocoa butter. Chocolates with non-cocoa butter fats, such as milk fat, may have a soft or mushy snap. Chocolates with a good snap show that they have a higher percentage of cacao, have been tempered properly, and usually are without non-cocoa butter fats of any type. Remember that temper greatly impacts overall flavor even if the snap of the chocolate may seem to be of little importance. A chocolate without a good snap should make one suspicious.
5) Flavor and Texture:
With all of the above information in mind, when we do put a piece of room-temperature chocolate in the mouth (preferably 70 F-78 F or so), and gently break it apart to let it slowly melt across our tongue, we are looking for the two aforementioned components of flavor: taste and aroma, as well as texture.
a) Taste and Aroma:
Place a square of chocolate in your mouth and break it up a bit. Move the melting chocolate around so that all of your tongue comes in contact with it. Is it tart (acidic), bitter, sweet, is there any trace of salt (some chocolates have some)? Are all of these components relatively balanced? Common imbalances are chocolates that are too sweet, or too bitter. Also note that "balanced" does not mean "boring." A chocolate should certainly have character in addition to being balanced, which means that each chocolate should be balanced according to its particular own merits. As you notice the chocolate's balance, or lack thereof, continue to breathe through your nose, and look for some of the same aromas that you noticed previously. Do these aromas seem the same; are they more or less powerful; are other aromas coming into play? Do the aromas add to or detract from the balance of tastes that you have noted? Continue to taste the chocolate paying attention to the following things (of course taking another square or two if need be):
Look for new qualities to the chocolate and note that at the beginning, when the chocolate first melts on your tongue, there are flavors that you may taste and smell that may change during the middle of the melting, or at the finish, when the chocolate is gone. Additionally, the chocolate may seem to have a greater depth or complexity of flavor at some points than at others, and this can certainly impact the overall impression that you have of it. Does the chocolate leave a pleasurable aftertaste of cacao, or is it primarily bitter, or cloyingly sweet, or perhaps the flavor doesn't linger at all. All of these qualities of a chocolate help distinguish it from another, and as you become familiar with the different qualities, you can compare and contrast them with other chocolate bars.
b) Texture
When first breaking up the piece of chocolate, pay attention to the initial texture. Do you notice any textural oddities? Is it waxy or mushy? As you continue to move the molten chocolate around your mouth, pay attention to whether it is it sticky, smooth, or grainy? Chocolates that are too refined can seem sticky and too creamy, and on the opposite side of the spectrum you might notice a rough, grainy texture, or perhaps simply a textural inconsistency with hard bits standing out every now and then. You will quickly realize what you find most pleasurable. Another textural sensation that you might experience is astringency. This is a puckering dryness that is due to tannins (high molecular weight polymeric flavonoids) interacting with proteins in your mouth, both in your saliva and on the tongue. This type of textural sensation, called a �trigeminal sensation,� is technically also considered to come under the umbrella of flavor, though it is not a taste or aroma. Too little astringency can result in a chocolate with little body, length, or character, whereas too much can make the chocolate seem dry and unpleasant. Astringency and other textural sensations greatly contribute to the experience of the chocolate, adding further information to the flavor, so take notes.
6) Overall:
It is up to you to pull together all of the information that you have gathered, from packaging type, appearance, snap, and tasting of the chocolate, to final textural sensations, and to figure out what you think of the bar. Over time, you will probably find that you have a preference for the products of certain manufacturers, or perhaps for certain origins, such as Venezuela, Madagascar, or the Dominican Republic. You may also find that you prefer certain strengths of chocolate, with more cacao content, more than others, and that you find the texture of bars with or without added cocoa butter to be preferable. You may also decide that you prefer a fruitier chocolate, or perhaps an earthier one. All of these decisions are ones that you will gradually make by paying close attention to your reaction to each of the bars that you carefully taste. The more that you learn, the more you will be able to appreciate and enjoy the fine chocolates that you purchase.